From Japan to Pforzheim

Unworn enameld ring by Theodor Fahrner with pearl, Pforzheim circa 1955

In the history of Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry, Fahrner jewelry from Pforzheim occupies a special place. For Theodor Fahrner and later his successor Gustav Braendle understood like hardly any other jewellery manufacturer of the modern age how to make artistically convincing designs and high-quality workmanship the trademark of their brooches, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Theodor Fahrner made artists' jewellery affordable by combining modern forms with democratic materials. He did not create individual pieces for a small elite like Lalique or Cartier, but the designs were produced in series in silver, decorated with enamel, marcasites and occasionally precious stones. Jewellers and department stores all over Europe sold the jewellery, which Fahrner advertised extensively in journals and magazines: "Fahrner jewellery - designed by the best artists" allowed every woman to participate in a modern life full of beauty. Every year, travelling salesmen with large sample cases presented the new products developed in Pforzheim to local jewellers. One such Fahrner sample case, full of unworn Fahrner jewellery, had lain untouched in an attic for the last 40 years or more until it was offered to us. It contained samples of almost all series from about 1919 until the company's dissolution in 1979, most of them with a model number or the "Original Fahrner" seal. This ring also comes from this collection and is therefore unworn and perfectly preserved. The ring comes from the series "Mattemail Jewellery", which was developed in the 1930s. The elongated oval ring face is concavely curved in the middle. In the center of like soldered spiral ornaments a pearl is set. It is a Japanese cultured pearl whose warm luster is accompanied by blue and turquoise enamel. The ring is made of silver, most of which has been lightly gilded. This type of gilding is called "antique gilding" by Fahrner. It has a cool, slightly greenish-gold tone, by which Fahrner jewelry can be easily identified. The ring was probably made in the 1950s. A wonderful overview of the wealth of designs can be found in the catalogue "Theodor Fahrner. Schmuck zwischen Avantgarde und Tradition", edited by Brigitte Leonhardt and Dieter Zühlsdorff, Stuttgart 2005, where the present series can be found on p. 204f. Fahrner jewelry is often collected. Discover all the other Fahrner jewelry we offer at this site.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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