Exciting

Unusual diamond-sapphire brooch of the art nouveau in gold, around 1910

The brooch presented here builds up some tension with its graphic form. A hexagon is the basic shape of the design, it seems an abstract frame. Two natural sapphires are set into this hexagon, which shows a beautiful matte color with a wonderful fine gilding. Starting from this, a moveable chain of diamonds is suspended, which holds a larger brilliant-cut diamond in the shape of a ypsilon. Jewellery with pendulum motifs were already popular as necklaces or lavaliers at the turn of the century. Here, the design idea has been conceived more graphically, designed more symmetrically, and has become an abstract-looking ornament. All these observations lead us to date the piece to the years around 1910, when the dynamic exuberance of Art Nouveau gradually changed into a more angular, elegant formal language. The fact that the outer frame is also designed as a hard line, without engravings, decorations or other ornaments, already points in this direction. The popularity of the pendulum motif in later years is shown by David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 321, but then in a richer design for the developed Art Deco with precious and intensely luminous coloured stones. Thus this piece of jewellery, so enigmatic at first sight, tells us a lot about itself: we are pleased to be able to present it to you in a beautiful state of preservation.

With the invention of gaslight and then electric light at the end of the 19th century, glistening brightness suddenly filled the ballrooms of Europe. No longer dark, yellow candlelight, but the white glow of hundreds of lamps made the ladies' jewellery shine and glitter as never before. No wonder that as a result of these developments, a new fashion also emerged: white jewels made of diamonds and silver responded to the new lighting conditions and replaced the previous more colourful designs. In general, jewellery was increasingly richly set with sparkling gems to create an ever more luxurious and rich appearance. At the great balls in Paris, London and St. Petersburg, ever more magnificent diamond necklaces were presented, as well as tiaras, brooches and rings, all dreams in white diamonds. The name of the era, the Belle Époque, still indicates the goal of the period: To shine in beauty. But the fashion for white jewellery also remained current in the following decades, right up to the Art Déco of the 1920s. Only the materials of the settings changed. The rapidly tarnishing silver was first replaced by platinum settings and later by jewellery made entirely of platinum or the white gold developed shortly before the world war.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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