Love's sweet kiss

Unusual marquise ring with old cut diamonds, around 1925

Every diamond has its own history and every lady her own style. When style and history meet, the result is a piece of jewellery that will stand the test of time. The ring we see here is such a piece of jewellery. Its shape is not random. It follows the cut of the unusual diamond in its center. This stone shows two peaks, which is why its cut is named "navette", meaning a little ship. But if you look into this particular shape of the diamond, you will find that the term "marquise cut" is also in common use. Inspired by his muse, the Marquise de Pompadour, whom we know from Boucher's gossamer paintings, Louis XV commissioned his gem cutters to cut a diamond that would remind him of his beloved's mouth and thus her smile. This legendary naming already reveals that this cut is something very special - and indeed, the maquis cut is considered very difficult to produce, and a successful stone is always a small feat. This two-pointed shape, which began in the 18th century with the first two-pointed stone at the French court, developed into a great jewellery fashion that remained current until the 20th century. The present ring dates to these years of the "two-pointed renaissance" of the 1920s. No less than eight further old-cut diamonds with a total of 0.53 carats set the individual compartments of the openwork and mille-handled ring head and form the setting of this noble ring. They surround the marquise stone like a wide, sparkling frame. The ring is forged platinum and came to us from Stuttgart.

Navette-cut gemstones are characterized by a total of 56 facets surrounding a central table. Their arrangement corresponds to that of a classic brilliant-cut diamond. The special thing about this cut is its elongated oval shape, which ends in two points and is somewhat reminiscent of the shape of a ship's hull. In specialist circles, this is why it is sometimes referred to as a small ship.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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