Unique white gold ring with rectangular 0.67 ct diamond, Berlin/Chicago 2020
A ring with a large, centrally set diamond is considered the classic engagement ring today. Here, the precious (and, according to legend, indestructible) stone stands for eternity - which is thus intended to underline the duration of the promise made with it. Significant for this connection of diamond ring and eternal love was the New York jeweller Charles Lewis Tiffany. Tiffany first marketed such rings through his mail-order catalog in 1886 and specifically promoted them as engagement gifts. In fact, however, the tradition of seeing a diamond ring as a symbolic piece of jewellery is far older. As early as 1477, it is said, Duchess Mary of Burgundy received a diamond ring as a promise of fidelity from her future husband Maximilian of Habsburg. This diamond ring follows the thoughts expressed above and it centrally sets a large diamond in an unusual Carée Cut (Square Cut) of 0.67ct and very good colour (Fine White + / Top Wesselton, F). The stone shows a sparkling firework of light reflections, with a small central inclusion. The rectangular diamond is accompanied by 20 smaller diamonds that adorn the openwork surface of the ring. Fine milgrain embellishments and delicate openwork distinguish the setting, which was created in the USA and commissioned to the beautiful diamond in a small manufactory. Particularly beautiful, the 14-karat white gold's festive hue brings out the sparkle of the gorgeous center stone and its shimmering companions. Thanks to its rather flat design and the fact that all the stones are set into the metal without prongs, the ring can also be worn every day without any problems.
In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread Table Cuts only brought out the brightness and colour of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose Cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early Brilliant Cut developed, called the Mazarin Cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi Cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's Full Cut diamonds, but several generations of continuous improvement of the cutting technique were necessary before the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally the Modern Full Cut in the 1940s.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.