Rococo Revival

Playful bow brooch with diamonds in pink gold, around 1890

No jewelry box of the late 19th century would have been complete without a brooch. Depending on wardrobe and occasion, these brooches served different purposes: there was the small collar brooch for the high-collared blouse, the jeweled pin for pinning scarves and veils, but also the festive corsage ornament worn in front of the evening or ball gown. "A handsome corsage ornament simulates a five looped bow of narrowest ribbon by means of single brilliants set in gold, a large diamond representing the knot," one could read in February 1899 in the American magazine The Jeweler's Circular. A somewhat smaller version of the brooch described there is the one presented here. It represents a three-dimensional bow and is made of red gold. The bow band, made of precious metal, is set all over with unusually clear rose-cut diamonds, which make the brooch shimmer with every movement. In the center is a diamond in the so-called Old Mine Cut set as a knot. The shape of the brooch is not least a deliberate allusion to Rococo jewels. In the late 19th century, the events of the French Revolution had receded into the distance - quite freely, the era of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette could be admired for its beauty and sophistication. Much more, the bourgeoisie, some of which had achieved great wealth through industrialization, represented a kind of new aristocracy that liked to express its position through magnificent jewellery. Not least, this jewellery referred to the formal world of pre-revolutionary France to subtly illustrate the new power relations. The jewelry is very well preserved and even after more than a century it is still eminently wearable - not only on evening dress.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.