Winter Ball in Vienna

Vintage 5.44 ct diamond solitaire in a white gold ring from Vienna, circa 1995

The love of jewellery knows many paths. Sometimes it is the design that inspires, as with so many pieces of Art Nouveau or Art Deco jewellery: there is the love of form that once drove the goldsmith and still fascinates today, the beauty of the details and the elegant lines. Then again it is the workmanship that astonishes, as in many pieces of jewellery from the early 19th century, when great effects were achieved with little material. And then again it is the beauty of the materials that leaves us speechless. The fire of precious gemstones has fascinated people since the earliest days - and the ring here shows why at first glance. The ring of white gold bears as its only stone, as the highlight and centre of the design, a brilliant-cut diamond of 5.44 ct. The brilliant-cut diamond has been brought into the optimal proportions with the utmost precision to ignite its fire. It sparkles and shines so that it is a feast to behold. We were able to purchase the ring in Vienna, where, according to its hallmarks, it was also made. The white gold setting holds the large stone with ease and finesse. The white sheen of the metal makes the diamond look its best. Its slight tint is thus hardly noticeable; a larger inclusion, a slightly transparent flag at the edge, hardly diminishes the brilliance. It is the beauty of light that is celebrated here. The ring was probably created in the 1990s as an engagement ring. This is evidenced by the hearts lovingly hidden in the diamond setting, which are only visible when looking at the side of the ring. Will it be given again as a gift of love? An independent appraisal from a publicly sworn Viennese laboratory is available for the ring. It is supplied with the ring.

In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but several generations of continuous improvement of the cutting technique were necessary before the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally the modern full cut in the 1940s.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.