Winter magic

Vintage brooch with 2,44 ct diamonds in platinum, around 1950

When the first snow has fallen overnight, the world seems transformed in the morning. The colours have faded, the sounds have disappeared, but the air is clear and the brand new light enchants nature. The brooch here has captured the magic of snow forever. It features a symmetrical ornament in a round frame, reminiscent of a snowflake. Forged entirely of cool sparkling platinum, brilliant cut diamonds stud every conceivable part of the showpiece. There are small 19th century old cuts on the outer frame, then so-called transitional cuts on the leaves towards the centre - and finally a wonderful full-cut brilliant in the centre of the design. A total of 2.44 ct diamonds in very good white color have been processed here. Obviously the goldsmith used older diamonds for the brooch and combined them with new cut diamonds of his time. One can follow the development of the brilliant cut almost chronologically, from the edge to the center of the handcrafted piece of jewelry. We discovered the brooch, which was created in the years around 1950, in London. It is very well preserved.

The shape of the diamond has evolved over many centuries. For a long time it was technically impossible to change the raw crystal more than rudimentary, because the diamond is so extraordinarily hard. In the 17th and 18th centuries it was then possible to extract more and more facets from the crystal, and in the course of the 19th century the cuts came closer and closer to the shape that we know today as a brilliant. It was not until 1919, however, that Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the ideal shape of the brilliant on an optical-physical basis; the exact shape, which is the standard in Germany today, the so-called fine cut of the practice, was not even determined until 1938. The shape of the modern brilliant-cut diamond really became established after the war. The brilliant is therefore actually a fairly recent invention - and this also means that with a diamond cut in the 19th century or at the beginning of the 20th century, a so-called "old cut", the proportions of the stone do not follow the standard of today's brilliant. Old cuts were always cut individually in those days: One wanted to find the optimal way between the best brilliance on the one hand and the least loss of material during cutting on the other. We find that it is precisely this individuality that makes old diamonds so particularly interesting. They are less easy to compare, and their value cannot simply be determined by means of a table: Because you have to look at each stone individually to really be able to say whether it has the fire and brilliance that you expect from a diamond.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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