Late flowering

Vintage necklace with sapphires & diamonds in art nouveau shapes, around 1980

The dynamic, organic forms of Art Nouveau began their triumphal march around the world from France in the years before 1900. In all European countries the new style was received and always changed in its own way. In Germany there was a penchant for geometry, in Spain for fantastic forms, and in Great Britain a fashion of its own developed. Especially in the field of jewelry, a series of easily recognizable designs emerged here, which are still convincing today due to their freshness in form and color. Just how much the forms of Art Nouveau were still appealing in later decades is shown by the elaborately crafted necklace presented here, which was created in the years around 1980 and celebrates the beauty of the formal language of Art Nouveau. In doing so, the design combines all the characteristics of the famous jewelry designs of the time: colored enamel, precious gemstones, and intricate workmanship by hand. Set on a delicate chain is an elongated pendant of gold with a face of silver. Two large areas of iridescent enamel, glowing pink to pink, attract attention. They look like the wings of a rare butterfly or the petals of an exotic plant. Because the base of gold is finely engraved under the enamel, it creates a particularly soft, shimmering luster. Sparkling diamonds stud the edges of the leaves and also the bars in curved shapes below them. Their white fire contrasts with the dark blue light of the two oval faceted sapphires that accentuate the central axis of the design. They are set in settings of gold, and the lower sapphire is also pendulously attached, closing the design downward. The design was inspired by the jewelry designs of French jewelry artists such as Lalique, Fouquet or Lucien Gaillard, who all liked to work with enamel. A necklace with enameled blossoms of the Weeping Heart is known from the latter, which similarly relies on the effect of multicolored enamel on a gold background (cf. Vivienne Becker. Art Nouveau Jewelry, London 1985, p. 64.). The workmanship and materials used attest to its creation in the 1980s.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.