Old craft in a new guise

Vintage ring with green tourmaline in granulated gold, circa 1955

Granulation is a discipline of goldsmithing that originated with the ancient Etruscans. The smallest gold beads are soldered onto a precious metal in such a way that they are only connected to each other at their respective tiny points of contact. Light and shadow create a sculptural effect on the surfaces thus granulated, and this is precisely what makes granulation work so appealing. The difficulty with this technique is to precisely match the melting point of the gold, because if the granulation balls get just a tiny bit too hot, the work immediately melts away. In the mid-19th century, the goldsmith Castellani revived this ancient technique, which is why we know it sufficiently from the jewellery of the Victorian era. What is less well known, however, is that granulation experienced a renaissance once again in 20th century Germany. How did this come about? In 1918, art historian Marc Rosenberg published History of Goldsmithing on a Technical Basis - inspiring goldsmiths among his readership to experiment. Johann Michael Wilm from Munich and also Elisabeth Treskow succeeded in producing fine jewelry with granulation even before the war. After the war, at the latest, the technique had matured to such an extent that many German goldsmiths dared to use it. The present ring dates from this period. Its large, oval ring face offers plenty of space for granulation scattered about as if by chance. Instead of diamonds or pearls, they form the escort for the green tourmaline that sets the ring. The natural gemstone features an unusual, luminous color reminiscent of Pacific waters. The ring is in very good condition. According to its workmanship and hallmarking, it was made in Germany.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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