Greetings from Utrecht
Antique Diamond Brooch in Platinum, Netherlands Circa 1925
The brooch here combines white sparkling diamonds and cool platinum. A large diamond of around 0.75 ct is the highlight of the design. It is set in the center of an elongated oval that is closely set with one hundred other, smaller diamonds. Thus, the central diamond appears to float above a sparkling expanse of diamonds alone: delicate openwork separates it from the rest of the brooch, making it stand out particularly impressively. The central diamond is cut in the old brilliant cut, the so-called "old European cut". It is white and has a very good fire, although it is graded as "pi", i.e. with inclusions: the center below the table is completely clear, only towards the edge are there some inclusions in the diamond, but these do not diminish the fire. The brooch is made of platinum. Only the axis and the safety bar of the brooch are made of white gold. In total, about 1.70 ct of diamonds are gathered here. We discovered the brooch in the Netherlands. It has survived in an antique case made by the Utrecht silver and goldsmith firm Begeer, van Kempen & Vos, which traded in this form since about 1919. We date the brooch to the 1920s.
With the invention of gaslight and then electric light at the end of the 19th century, glistening brightness suddenly filled the ballrooms of Europe. No longer dark, yellow candlelight, but the white glow of hundreds of lamps made the ladies' jewellery shine and glitter as never before. No wonder that as a result of these developments, a new fashion also emerged: white jewels made of diamonds and silver responded to the new lighting conditions and replaced the previous more colourful designs. In general, jewellery was increasingly richly set with sparkling gems to create an ever more luxurious and rich appearance. At the great balls in Paris, London and St. Petersburg, ever more magnificent diamond necklaces were presented, as well as tiaras, brooches and rings, all dreams in white diamonds. The name of the era, the Belle Époque, still indicates the goal of the period: To shine in beauty. But the fashion for white jewellery also remained current in the following decades, right up to the Art Déco of the 1920s. Only the materials of the settings changed. The rapidly tarnishing silver was first replaced by platinum settings and later by jewellery made entirely of platinum or the white gold developed shortly before the world war.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.