An old cut to dream about

Wonderful diamond solitaire with 2,90 ct in old cut in gold, around 1890/2000

Nowadays, diamonds are often cut fully automatically, scanned by computer and their ideal cut pattern calculated. The cut is perfected further and further so that in the end the same, always the same product of the gemstone industry is created. Because one brilliant should look like the other. Diamonds that were cut more than 100 years ago, on the other hand, are distinguished by their individuality. In a time when every facet was still created by hand and the rough diamond was closely examined in order to bring out the most beautiful of it, the range of diamond shapes created in this way was far greater than it is today. The wonderful diamond solitaire here shows this impressively. For it is faceted like a modern brilliant, but shows itself in a masterful old cut, which gives it character and makes it unmistakable. The cutter, who presumably held the stone in his hands as early as the first half of the 19th century, wanted to preserve as much of the diamond's substance as possible and elicit the rough stone's very own individuality. The diamond is held in an airy knob setting that was forged into the antique stone about 20 years ago; it is made of high-carat gold. Set in six restrained claws, the diamond can unfold its impressive fire in the best possible way. Here, the central table of the diamond reveals its back facets particularly beautifully and shows changing light reflections depending on the incidence of light. The stone has a substantial weight of 2.90 carats and displays a wonderfully warm, slightly warm-toned glow that is very different from the much harder brilliance of modern stones. Its clarity has been certified "vs", so it shows no inclusions visible to the eye. The ring came to us from Amsterdam and is a wonderful piece of jewelry, which is already characterized by simple understatement and warm sparkling brilliance.

In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but several generations of continuous improvement of the cutting technique were necessary until the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally the modern full cut in the 1940s.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.