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Delicate brooch with sapphire & diamonds in gold & platinum, around 1920

Designs whose metal surfaces looked like lace were aptly called "dessins dentelles" in the early 20th century. They were only made possible by the new technique of rolling platinum onto gold, thus combining the hardness of platinum with the malleability of gold. The result was delicate designs of previously unheard-of precision craftsmanship. The present stick pin is a strikingly beautiful example of this type of jewellery and proves that this delicacy can be brought to bear even in the smallest of spaces. Delicate piercings punctuate the surface with shadows, while the remaining areas feature mille handles and are set with diamond roses to counter highlights. A dark sapphire cabochon stands at the center of the brooch. Backlit, it appears dark blue with greenish and yellow zoning, but to the naked eye and in daylight, it appears almost black, allowing the platinum to shine particularly brightly in contrast. We were able to discover the beautiful brooch in Hamburg. However, the special elegance of these white jewels made them favorites in all European metropolises. At that time, people preferred to wear them on dark fabric to emphasize the lace-like patterns. The jewel is very well preserved and ready to be worn again a century after its creation.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.