White Treasures

Enchanting diamond bracelet of the Art Déco, around 1930

Jewellery in elegant, cool white - that has been the dream of jewellery designers since the late 19th century. But the technical possibilities put a stop to this dream for some time. Diamonds were available, but the tricky part was the question of the right metal. At first, only silver was available to create white jewelry from, but the metal tarnishes and can leave discolorations on skin and clothes. Finally, it was platinum and, in the 1910s, white gold that found their way into jewellers' workshops and onto ladies' wrists and décolletés. This bracelet is an elegant graphic design from the Art Deco period of the 1930s. With the incomparable precision that distinguished the jewels of the early 20th century, the rectangular elements, each set with a transitional-cut diamond, are articulated by millet handles. In all, 18 brilliant-cut diamonds of a total weight of approximately 2.70 carats and without exception of very good clarity have been worked into the pieces. The settings of the diamonds, all set together in a moveable manner, are finely engraved on the sides and a simple link chain completes the jewel with its radiant showpiece. The cool white of the bracelet was originally created by a platinum overlay on what was then new and slightly yellowish white gold. A later owner then had the jewel shone in pure white by rhodium plating and apparently shortened by one link. It now has a length of 17 cm. Our goldsmith will be happy to complete the band to its original length, if necessary. We will be happy to provide a non-binding quote for this. Based on the materials, the design and the diamond cuts, we date the bracelet to around 1930. A German stamp for the fineness of the white gold indicates its place of origin. We were able to acquire this fine bracelet from the estate of a Hamburg merchant family.

Since the years around 1900, platinum has been used more and more frequently, but its processing was difficult and the metal was still much more expensive than gold, so that it mostly remained here with platinum editions on the front side of the pieces. It was not until 1912, when Pforzheim succeeded in producing white gold on a mass scale by cleverly alloying gold with other metals, that the way was clear for all-round white jewellery. However, it was to take until after the First World War for the new metal to really establish itself: with the fashion for Art Deco, however, there was no stopping it.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.