Winter delights

Precious diamond necklace in platinum & gold, art nouveau around 1900

When the world has lost all colour during a walk in winter, when only white and grey in all shades dominate the landscape, here and there a greeting of life appears for the attentive eye. On the bushes along the path, the berries of autumn have survived, rowan berries or sloes perhaps, and even under their shell of ice they remind us of the warm days of the past year. The colliert here unfolds a symphony in white. And reminds in its motif quite similarly of the forces of nature and the course of the year. The basic shape is a rhombus, laid crosswise and slightly rounded. It forms a frame into which a branch of an icy, glittering plant projects. Eight berries have sprouted from it and shine in the cool light of large diamonds. The motif of the plant is also taken up by the frame. At the bottom left, the goldsmith has indicated a leaf. And its dynamic form continues in the pendulum-like element at the lower edge, which merges into another large old-cut diamond. This piece of jewellery was created in the years around 1900 and its elegant forms show the influence of Art Nouveau. We often associate the works of the great artists of that era, such as Fouquet, Gaillard or Lalique, more with designs in warmly glowing yellow gold, often set with coloured gemstones and luminous enamel. The necklace pendant, however, shows that diamond jewellery was also created at that time, completely committed to the turn-of-the-century ideal of white jewels. To this end, the pendant sets diamonds totalling around 3.56 ct in platinum. Together with a fine chain also made of this luminous white material, the design thus enchants in an elegant monochrome. For this piece of jewellery we had an independent expert opinion prepared by the German Society for Gemstone Evaluation. It has confirmed the quality of the materials and is supplied with the necklace.

In the years shortly before 1890 there was a true revolution in the field of jewellery. The excess of historicism in form and colour appeared to be no longer in keeping with the times throughout Europe. Increasing mechanization, also in jewelry making, had repeated the same forms over and over again until they had finally become interchangeable and arbitrary. The jewellers feared for their existence: jewellery sales were declining rapidly, a new fashion was not in sight! At the beginning of the new decade the crisis was overcome. White jewels were the solution, and they quickly caught on. Instead of many poorly combinable pieces of jewellery, ladies now concentrated on a few, but all the more high-quality objects. They were united by their common colour: white diamonds and pearls shone in settings of silver, later platinum and white gold. The designs are filigree and completely restrained in their formal language. Leaves, tendrils and light geometric shapes suddenly dominated the picture, which until just now had been populated by putti in large numbers.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.