Expressive bird of paradise brooch in gold, rubies & diamonds, circa 1950
This bird of paradise brooch is not only a quintessential midcentury jewel, but likewise a first-class conversation piece. Dating to circa 1950, it perfectly embodies the taste of the post-war era: warm gold tones such as red and yellow, combined with colourful gemstones that lend themselves especially well to figurative motifs. While the piece still shows characteristics of the late Art Déco style, its design anticipates the vividly coloured, figural novelty jewellery of the 1950s. The iconic bird of paradise motif was a brooch trend heralded by maisons such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, under whose influence this brooch, too, was created with masterful attention to detail. The bird's feathers are engraved, adding depth and detail. Rubies, sapphires and diamonds, mainly calibré-cut, emulate the bird's rich colouring as well as that of the flowering branch the bird is seated on. The gold shows the rare purity of 390 (approx. 9.5k), a purity used in Austria but never hallmarked. The piece was likely made in Vienna. A large double pin on the back allows the pin to be worn on heavier fabrics and furs as well. This type of pin is often found on midcentury pieces, seeing as they were popularly worn on fur coats. Its design and excellent craftsmanship make this brooch a true collector's piece for those who appreciate midcentury design. At once elegant and extravagant, the brooch remains eminently wearable until today.
The jewellery of the 1960s playfully turns against the abstractions of Art Deco as well as against the widespread classicism of the immediate pre-war years and thus testifies to the will for a completely new beginning. With lightness and wit, the deprivations of the war were renounced and the future turned towards, without at the same time forgetting to express the new wealth of the economic miracle in the field of jewellery as well.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.