Belle Époque bow tie

Exquisite platinum brooch with 2.96 ct diamonds, circa 1910

The motif of the bow runs through centuries of jewellery design and has remained popular to this day. Once a favorite of the fun-loving Rococo era, bow forms experienced a renaissance countless times in the centuries that followed. It was also a favorite of the so-called Garland Style during the Belle Époque, as it perfectly captured the zeitgeist of the turn of the century with its penchant for playful elegance. This brooch is a particularly splendid representative of this type of jewellery and captivates with its precious materials, excellent workmanship and its elegant shape. The brooch is made of solid platinum, whose light colour went particularly well with the pastel fabrics of the dresses in the first decade of the 20th century. Novel processes made it possible for the first time to produce jewellery made solely of what was then the most precious of all metals. Its great strength allowed breathtakingly filigree creations which, like our brooch, were reminiscent of the finest lace. Its curved surface is set with 146 diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.96 carats. At the center of the composition, a particularly beautiful old-cut diamond shines like a clear star. Fine shadow gaps surround the largely hexagonal settings of the gemstones, and tiny milegrain settings dissolve the shape into a play of white light reflections. Thus, despite its size, the brooch appears surprisingly light and airy. Then as now, bows are an ancient symbol of connection - in the truest sense of the word. So it's no surprise that Elizabeth II wore a large brooch in the shape of a bow to the wedding of William and Kate. This brooch is aptly named the True Lover's Knot Brooch. So the bow is always a beautiful gift to a loved one! Cf. for dating also David Bennett/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, London 2010, p. 278 ff, with comparable pieces of jewellery.

The years around 1900 brought a formal language into the world of jewellery with the so-called "garland style", which countered Art Nouveau with a more classical, finer stylistic conception. Allusions to Louis XVI forms and fine motifs from classical antiquity enlivened a neoclassicism that valued small, delicate laurel tendrils just as much as meticulous festoons and ornaments with tiny milgrain settings. Fine materials and invariably luxurious fittings were sought and supplied by goldsmiths in Paris, London and Vienna as well as by their counterparts in Berlin and overseas. One particular type of jewellery was particularly popular: so-called "white jewels" combined diamonds, coloured stones and platinum to create a crystalline, cool and particularly elegant impression; supernaturally seductive, a little worldly and thus particularly luxurious.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.