Vienna Calling

Glamorous Art Deco brooch with diamonds in white gold, Vienna, 1930s

In the Art Deco era, a new basic shape for jewellery began its triumphant advance: The shield, designed as an elongated oval or polygon. It met the 1920s preference for graphic forms, because the large surface could be filled with powerful geometric patterns. The brooch here demonstrates this fashion in an impressive way. The slightly stepped outline is filled inside with jagged, powerful lines, all of which are set with sparkling diamonds. An additional large diamond of 0.85 ct is set in the center of the design, held in place by a mille-handled ornate frame. The gemstone is shaped in a transitional cut and shines in fine white: a true highlight of this magnificent piece of jewellery. A total of 3.19 ct of diamonds have been worked into the brooch. An independent appraisal has confirmed the quality of the gemstones and comes with the piece of jewellery. The brooch sets the diamonds in 14-carat white gold, which with its bright and elegant luster, along with platinum, was the fashion material of the Art Deco period. The brooch found its way to us from the Austrian capital, Vienna, and its hallmarks show that it was also created there. The powerful forms allow us to date the excellently preserved piece of jewellery to the 1930s.

Jewellery in elegant, cool and noble white - that has been the dream of jewellery designers since the late 19th century. But the technical possibilities put a stop to this dream for some time. Diamonds were available, but the tricky part was the question of the right metal. At first, only silver was available to create white jewelry from, but the metal tarnishes and can leave discolorations on skin and clothes. From the 1900s onwards, platinum was used more and more, but it was difficult to work with and much more expensive than gold, so that platinum was usually only used on the front of the pieces. It was not until 1912, when Pforzheim succeeded in producing white gold on a mass scale by cleverly alloying gold with other metals, that the way was clear for all-round white jewellery. However, it was to take until after the First World War for the new metal to really establish itself: with the fashion for Art Deco, however, there was no stopping it.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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