Orient & Occident

Large bar brooch with natural pearls & diamonds in platinum, circa 1910

Luxury, joie de vivre and the celebration of beauty were the ideal of the years around 1900: the Belle Époque revelled in wealth and glamour. The world's most beautiful dancers danced at the Moulin Rouge in Paris, the society couples met on the Ringstrasse in Vienna, and the ladies' diamonds shone brightly at the balls in the elegant hotels on Unter den Linden in Berlin. This bar brooch speaks the elegant design language of the years shortly after 1900. Made of ´ platinum, it is decorated with a rich setting of diamonds and eleven genuine oriental pearls. The range of colours of the pearls is remarkable: their hues range from rosy grey to delicate shades of violet. The pearls sit in a shimmering row in the centre of the brooch and their arrangement emphasises the linear shape of the elegant pin. Millegrains further accentuate the beauty of the materials through light reflections; the precious platinum luster of the orient pearls harmonizes wonderfully with the 26 sparkling diamonds. The result is an exemplary white jewel, a particularly beautifully and sumptuously appointed brooch in the best condition and workmanship.

With the invention of gaslight and then electric light at the end of the 19th century, glistening brightness suddenly filled the ballrooms of Europe. No more dark, yellow candlelight, but the white glow of hundreds of lamps made the ladies' jewellery shine and glitter as never before. It is no wonder that a new fashion emerged as a result of these developments: white jewels made of diamonds and silver responded to the new lighting conditions and replaced the previous more colourful designs. In general, jewellery was increasingly richly set with sparkling gems to create an ever more luxurious and rich appearance. At the great balls in Paris, London and St. Petersburg, ever more magnificent diamond necklaces were presented, as well as tiaras, brooches and rings, all dreams in white diamonds. The name of the era, the Belle Époque, still indicates the goal of the period: To shine in beauty. But the fashion for white jewellery also remained current in the following decades, right up to the Art Déco of the 1920s. Only the materials of the settings changed. The rapidly tarnishing silver was first replaced by platinum settings and later by jewellery made entirely of platinum or white gold, which was developed shortly after the World War.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.