In the moonlight

Splendid brooch with moonstones & 4,48 ct diamonds, around 1910 & later

"I want to remember another gemstone, which admittedly has nothing of sunny colourfulness about it, but rather chose the mild, soft moonbeam as its patron saint; it is also named after it: Moonlight Stone. Born in Scotland, it had come to the continent only as it were on a visit; but since the ladies and misses have become the stars of fashion, the Parisians have also taken a share in the clair de lune jewel, such a lively share that it has become a fashionable thing. With black toilets the bluish gray, translucent stone looks especially beautiful, almost melancholy." ("Fashionable Things for Summer," in Der Bazar, No. 21, May 27, 1890, 36th year, p. 202) One gemstone that is virtually indicative of the Belle Époque, the years between 1890 and 1910, is the moonstone. People loved brightly shining jewellery with elegant lines, which sometimes seemed almost ethereal. The moonstone hit exactly this nerve: its never quite comprehensible colour somewhere between white, grey and blue and its fantastic shimmering made it particularly attractive for the designers of that time. For this reason, we also chose this particular stone to complete the present brooch, which came to us incomplete. From time to time we find pieces that have not completely survived the passage of time on our forays through antique shops, auctions and flea markets. With regard to the jewellery fashion of their time and with the help of old designs we then complete them again. One such piece was the magnificent brooch, which was created towards the end of the first decade of the 20th century and once adorned the neckline of a ball gown as a corsage ornament. We had our goldsmith set and mount large moonstone cabochons in platinum to match the brooch, which was forged from platinum and set with 162 old-cut diamonds weighing 4.48 ct. Models for the additions can be found, for example, in the numerous wonderful jewelry designs collected by the New York Public Library, e.g. in the Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Picture Collection, here in the center a French design from 1907. The noble brooch is now complete again and eminently wearable. Created even then for electric lighting conditions, it still provides sparkling light reflections on evening wear with its moveably attached elements.

Jewellery in elegant, cool and noble white - that has been the dream of jewellery designers since the late 19th century. But the technical possibilities put a stop to this dream for some time. Diamonds were available, but the tricky part was the question of the right metal. At first, only silver was available to create white jewelry from, but the metal tarnishes and can leave discolorations on skin and clothes. Since the years around 1900 platinum was used more and more, but it was difficult to work with and the metal was much more expensive than gold, so that it mostly remained with platinum on the front side of the pieces. Only particularly precious pieces of jewellery like this one were made of solid platinum.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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