Jewel of the "new woman

Beautiful Art Deco brooch with diamonds & sapphires, around 1925

"The new woman" was the ideal of the 1920s and early 1930s. The new woman had won the right to vote, she was self-confident in professional and love matters, even part of the nightlife of the Weimar Republic - things that seemed unimaginable barely a decade and a half earlier. The fact that a new self-image could also be translated into aesthetics, indeed that it virtually required a new aesthetic, is attested to by articles in influential German fashion journals such as Die Dame. The women portrayed there wore bobbed heads and strikingly made-up lips, loosely cut dresses - and yet the most influential among them were not simply style icons, but active as authors and artists. That the jewellery of the Belle Époque, floral and playful, was reminiscent of the time before the war, of a different social order, is self-explanatory. The jewellery of the new woman deliberately set herself apart from this: Clearly designed and geometric, it deliberately eschewed anything cloying for a powerful, cool formal language full of craftsmanlike finesse. It was a linear, often emphatically austere elegance that characterized the most modern jewelry of the time. This brooch, which came to us from Vienna and was created in the 1920s, is one such modern piece of jewellery. The piece of jewellery shows itself as an openwork shield of high-carat white gold, the front of which is structured with splendid saw marks, mille handles and arabesque geometric patterns. The brooch is set all over with diamonds of various cuts. The central navette diamond and the four old-cut diamonds in careau and round settings, respectively, to the left and right of it are further accentuated by two lines of calibrated-cut natural sapphires in a slightly recessed central field. An elaborately crafted, slightly curved frame, flared to the narrow sides, sets further old- and rose-cut diamonds in equally openwork settings. In total, over four carats of diamonds have been worked in historic cuts, divided among 101 diamonds. This wonderful and unusual piece of jewellery comes with a detailed appraisal from the German Society for Gemstone Appraisal Idar-Oberstein.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.