White lace

Elegant Art Deco brooch with diamonds in white gold, around 1930

Designs whose metal surfaces looked like lace were aptly called "dessins dentelles" in the early 20th century. The present brooch is a strikingly beautiful example of this genre of jewelry and proves that this delicacy can be brought to bear even in a small space. Delicate apertures punctuate the surface with shadow gaps, while the remaining areas have been mille-handled and feature highlights in the form of shimmering diamond roses. A simple basic form lends the design the elegant austerity that was so prized in Art Deco. At the center of the design are five large old-cut diamonds that together weigh approximately 1.87 ct. Their horizontal alignment provides the basic shape of the design and also its ornamentation. Each of the diamonds is set in a mille-handle setting surrounded by a round shadow gap that makes it appear even larger. Finely sawn diamonds are set around each of them. Delicate arabesques fill the space between these and the edge of the brooch. The work is executed in an early white gold alloy, which was only patented in the 1910s and first achieved great popularity in the Art Deco years. We discovered the beautiful brooch in Hamburg. However, the special elegance of these white jewels made them favorites in all European metropolises. By the way: especially filigree representatives of these lace-like designs were often worn on dark fabric at that time to emphasize the craftsmanship of such a jewel. The delicacy of this brooch also comes into its own best on a dark coat, sweater or blazer.

Jewellery in elegant, cool and noble white - that has been the dream of jewellery designers since the late 19th century. But the technical possibilities put a stop to this dream for some time. Diamonds were available, but the tricky part was the question of the right metal. At first, only silver was available to create white jewelry from, but the metal tarnishes and can leave discolorations on skin and clothes. From the 1900s onwards, platinum was used more and more, but it was difficult to work with and much more expensive than gold, so that platinum was usually only used on the front of the pieces. It was not until 1912, when Pforzheim succeeded in producing white gold on a mass scale by cleverly alloying gold with other metals, that the way was clear for all-round white jewellery. However, it was to take until after the First World War for the new metal to really establish itself: with the fashion for Art Deco, however, there was no stopping it.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


OUR PROMISE

We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

Play