Passionate Duet

Charming Belle Époque Ruby & Diamond Brooch, Circa 1895

The large brooch here presents precious gemstones in a delicate design. Around a large diamond of just over one carat, tendrils and leaves spread over the brooch. They are symmetrically designed and form a rectangular field. Each spot is set with diamonds and rubies. They are set in silver. Because it is slightly darkened, the sparkle of the gemstones comes out all the better. The sparkling diamonds and fiery rubies complement each other to create a passionate duet. The delicate settings and narrow bars make them appear to float in front of the fabric of the wearer's dress or blouse. The romantic brooch of the Belle Époque was created in the last years of the 19th century. It was created for an educated, distinguished taste that did not appreciate the contemporaneous innovations of Art Nouveau, but preferred classical individual forms and calm symmetries to any fashionable innovation. The design achieved a calm and refinement that is still convincing today. The brooch, the reverse of which is made of high-carat gold, was imported to France in earlier times, as evidenced by hallmarks on the rim of the brooch and the pin. We discovered it in Vienna and brought it with us to Berlin. Its journey through Europe is quite typical for jewellery of this quality: its beauty convinced and continues to convince, across all borders. An independent certificate has confirmed the quality of the materials and comes with the brooch.

In the years shortly before 1890 there was a true revolution in the field of jewellery. The excess of historicism in form and colour appeared to be no longer in keeping with the times throughout Europe. Increasing mechanization, also in jewellery making, had repeated the same forms over and over again until they had finally become interchangeable and arbitrary. The jewellers feared for their existence: jewellery sales were declining rapidly, a new fashion was not in sight! At the beginning of the new decade the crisis was overcome. White jewels were the solution, and they quickly caught on. Instead of many poorly combinable pieces of jewellery, ladies now concentrated on a few, but all the more high-quality objects. They were united by their common colour: white diamonds and pearls shone in settings of silver, later platinum and white gold. The designs are filigree and completely restrained in their formal language. Leaves, tendrils and light geometric shapes suddenly dominated the picture, which until just now had been populated by putti in large numbers. The brooch presented here is a piece from this new fashion, which remained current into the first years of Art Deco.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.