A virtue of necessity

Elegant retro ring with diamonds in gold, around 1940

When one thinks of Art Deco jewelry, the first thing that comes to mind may be cool, elegant designs in platinum and white gold, gleaming white with rich diamond settings. Fine designs in geometric shapes, articulated by the finest saw work and delicately and elegantly designed: This is the style of the late 1920s, which in fact corresponds to early Art Deco. In the course of the 1930s, however, the Parisian jewellery houses in particular developed this formal language further, and by the end of the decade there was a turnaround: instead of white gold and platinum, yellow and red gold were now once again the metals of choice, and the forms became more sculptural, voluminous and expansive, although still designed from a powerful geometry. This change in style is not exclusively but also explained by the technical and economic changes of the time. Platinum, for example, was de facto no longer available to the goldsmiths at the latest with the beginning of the war, which is why the switch to yellow gold was not only voluntary. The trade routes to the precious gemstones had also been interrupted in many cases, so that many pieces of this time only set smaller gemstones, those in secondary use, or even had no gemstones at all. This ring originates from this period and beautifully demonstrates all these stylistic features that were widespread throughout Europe. The ring of warmly glowing, reddish gold is set crosswise to the finger and presents eight diamonds on the resulting rectangular display area. These are shaped in the Old European Cut, as it was already used at the beginning of the century - although the brilliant cut was already known around 1940. Presumably, these stones come from old stocks or even from an older piece of jewellery, which was also due to the scarcity of materials. The settings dispense entirely with platinum and present the white diamonds in gold. The ring thus created tells us its story about the materials used - and bears witness to the inventiveness of European goldsmiths even in difficult times.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.