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Glamorous Art Deco "Drapery" Clip, Paris 1940s

The clip brooch here is designed as a fabric ribbon knotted in itself, as a large bow of silver, richly set with sparkling amethysts. The center of the design is occupied by a row of large, oval faceted amethysts. At the upper edge, two rows of smaller stones mark the course of the ribbon. The expansive, powerful design as a stylized drapery is also known in English as "Drapery Jewellery". These forms are typical of the 1940s. In economically difficult times, jewellery was created whose main focus was on reflective, undecorated and shiny metal surfaces, for which fewer precious stones were needed than for the designs of the decade before, because the trade routes had been cut off by the war. Precious stones were thus used sparingly, often set from older pieces; the great jewellers' houses also often worked with so-called semi-precious stones such as amethysts or citrines, which, for all their beauty, were less costly and were also mined in Europe. The brooch was made in Paris according to its hallmarks. It is very well preserved and a beautiful and rare example of jewellery from this time of upheaval.

One of the most beautiful and typical pieces of Art Deco jewellery is the clip. Extravagant, precious examples, mostly set with diamonds, were produced by Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels in Paris from the late 1920s onwards and were soon followed by goldsmiths all over the world. The special thing about this new type of brooch was that it could no longer be worn only on the lapel, but everywhere on the dress, on the belt, on the bag and even in the hair. Often as a pair, but also individually, surprising accents could be set, which had not been possible before. At the time of their introduction, the shape of the clips was initially flat, the surfaces richly set with diamonds. In the course of the 1930s, more voluminous, geometric shapes came into fashion. Yellow gold also replaced the previously favoured white gold, in line with the general Art Deco trend. A final innovation before the upheaval of the Great War was the redesign of the back holder towards the end of the 1930s. Whereas previously there had been a single large plate with a spring mechanism, now two interconnected pins were used. On the history of the clip, see David Bennett/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 322-325, with numerous illustrations.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.

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