Perfection in diamond
Vintage brooch with 6,30 ct diamonds in platinum, Paris circa 1960
Rare luck! Radiant white diamonds in a wide variety of cuts are offered by this brooch in the richest abundance and in the most perfect form: No fewer than 89 diamonds are set here in platinum and shine in glistening light. In addition to classic brilliant-cut diamonds, we see the finest diamond baguettes in wonderful quality. The brooch is a typical piece of jewellery of the post-war years and already cost about two years' salary of a worker at the time of purchase. It is a piece of jewellery that, according to the hallmarking, was created in Paris and immediately transports us to a glamorous ball in the city of lights and love. The new urge for fun-loving wealth after the great war demanded new forms, which the years around 1960 were able to satisfy with a fresh will to design: With reference to the clear lines of Art Deco, the goldsmiths of these years broke up the traditional symmetries without, however, renouncing the finest materials. This brooch speaks the new language of this new era: it is dynamic, magnificent and modern! Developed from the simplest conceivable form, the pure line, the radiant diamonds are set in four rows, forcing the platinum almost to invisibility. Pure diamond brilliance delights the beholder to this day. A special piece, excellently preserved and enlivened by a dreamlike inner fire.
In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but it would take several more generations of continuous development of the cutting technique before the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally, in the 1940s, the modern full cut.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.
We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.