Vintage 8.64 ct diamond in a modern platinum setting, circa 1960/2021
A ring with a single, large diamond is considered the classic engagement ring today. Here, the precious (and, according to legend, indestructible) stone stands for eternity - which is thus meant to underline the duration of the promise made with it. The ring in question here holds at its centre an unusual cushion-cut diamond of an impressive 8.64 carats. Its colour is slightly tinted (P-R, light yellow) and appears pleasantly warm white to the eye. Its clarity is first class: The brilliant has been classified by an independent institute with the purity grade "vsi", which means it has no inclusions that are difficult to see with the eye, or even with a magnifying glass. Due to its good symmetry, it has excellent fire. The diamond, which was probably cut in the 1960s, came to us from Zurich. We acquired it unmounted. Our goldsmiths set it in high karat platinum. Four airy claws hold it securely and allow maximum light penetration. Ten smaller diamonds on the ring shoulders accompany the solitaire, like small moons accompany a large planet. It comes with the independent appraisal pictured.
In ancient times, diamonds were valued primarily for their incomparable hardness. As symbols of invincible strength, their beauty was secondary at best. In fact, early diamonds do not appear at all attractive to the modern eye. Medieval cutting techniques also did not allow for spectacular light reflections, and the widespread table cuts only brought out the brightness and color of the stones. All this changed in the course of the 17th century. The nobility of the Baroque period developed a taste for glittering gemstones. Rose-cut diamonds, whose many facets reflected candlelight beautifully, were particularly popular. In the middle of the century, a first, early brilliant cut developed, called the Mazarin cut after the influential Cardinal Jules Mazarin, characterized by a crown of 17 facets. By the end of the century, these diamonds were then replaced by a new shape, named the Peruzzi cut after its inventor. Vincenzo Peruzzi was a gem cutter from Venice, who increased the crown of the diamonds by additional facets to a total of 33, thus increasing the fire of the stones enormously. However, these early brilliant diamonds were not standardized in terms of the number and shape of the facets. Each stone was cut in such a way that as much substance as possible could be preserved. New diamond deposits in Brazil in the second half of the 18th century then led to a cut shape that became known as the Old Mine Cut. These diamonds are already very similar to today's full-cut diamonds, but it would take several more generations of continuous development of the cutting technique before the Old Mine Cut became the Old European Cut, and finally, in the 1940s, the modern full cut.
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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.