Floral brooch "en pampille" with diamond roses, around 1850
Those who attended a ball around 1850 were treated to a veritable splendour of blossoms: Real flowers, blossoms made of silk and even those made of precious stones shimmered in the candlelight. Whether in the hair, as a brooch on the décolleté, on the wide hoop skirt of the dress or in a portable bouquet holder ("tussie mussie"), the fashion plates of those years show us the exuberant flower decoration of the ladies' world. A new naturalism had taken hold of jewellery and caused the goldsmith's art to blossom in the truest sense of the word. The present brooch was also created in the course of this fashion. It appears asymmetrical and dynamic, as a branch of flowers streaked by the wind, from which leaves or dew seem to pearl. This type of design with movable suspensions, called "en pampille", is quite typical of that time and also fulfilled a purpose: whether the wearer of such a piece of jewellery was dancing or just fanning herself, the diamond drops always moved with her and flashed in the light. A total of 5.00 ct diamonds have been worked into this brooch, cut - appropriately enough - in the historic rose cut, which should unfold its effect especially by candlelight. The diamonds stand out particularly brightly from the dark patinated silver of their settings. The reverse, on the other hand, is made of gold, so that the brooch could not leave any dark traces on the neckline of the ball gown on which it was once worn. The piece of jewellery is very well preserved. Comparable brooches of that time can be found for instance in Brigitte Marquardt. Jewellery. Realismus und Historismus. 1850-1895. Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Munich 1998, p. 263 or in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p.118.
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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.
If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.