A Round Thing

Large Belle Époque Platinum Pendant/Brooch With 4.65 ct Diamonds, Circa 1910

The fashion of the first decade after 1900 brought a completely new development in the history of jewellery. As in the years before, the jewels shone in bright white, made of platinum and diamond (Cf. "Learn more..."). But the forms now became lighter, airier, more delicate, even ethereal. In particular, the increasingly practiced use of platinum made it possible to create the most delicate ridges and structures, which had previously been technically impossible with gold or silver. Hardly thicker than the threads in the web of a silkworm, these designs stretch out like an airy mesh, whether as pendants, brooches or rings. And they always bear sparkling diamonds, which the bright metal can make appear even larger than their shape suggests. Large, round brooches made of platinum and diamonds were a speciality of the years around 1910. They still surprise us today with the precision with which they are designed and inspire us with the delicacy of their designs - of which this example is a wonderful example. Around a central old European cut diamond, a single-carat of beautiful quality, we see a multitude of fine, diamond-shaped settings with flared tips, which, regularly set together, create a translucent, openwork net, completely set with diamonds. This central part of the brooch, is slightly curved and worked in one piece. Separated by a delicate shadow gap, a multifoil frame holds the diamond arrangement and sparkles in the brilliance of further diamonds, while eight larger old European cut diamonds add regular highlights. The large brooch, which can also be worn as a pendant thanks to a retractable eyelet, shows itself to be entirely a child of the light and elegant fashion of the beginning of the century. Incredibly delicate and refined, the goldsmith here has brought the platinum into a rounded design that beautifully showcases the fine single-carat diamond in the centre and brings together a total of 117 diamonds in various cuts. Whether worn as a brooch or as a pendant, the jewel attracts attention simply by virtue of its size of approximately 4.8 cm in diameter - and the closer one looks, the more admirable the jewel itself becomes. Beautiful in design, precise in execution and select in material, it displays timeless elegance, ready to adorn many more generations to come. Cf. with numerous examples of jewellery of this type: David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 82, p. 271ff.

The Belle Époque produced jewellery of such precision craftsmanship as had hardly been seen before. Narrow sawn shadow gaps, the most delicate milgrain settings - all this was made possible by the application of a thin layer of platinum on gold, because the hard, white material made the gold harder and made such techniques possible in the first place. Pure white materials - diamonds, pearls and platinum - were also particularly in demand, and the artistic surface treatment made the jewellery seem to consist entirely of light and shadow.

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.