Dream of a rose

Large spinel, diamond & natural pearl pendant of the Belle Époque, circa 1890

The years leading up to 1890 were witness to a true revolution in the field of jewellery. The rich, often heavy formal vocabulary of the neo-styles no longer seemed appropriate to the times. The ongoing technical revolution, also in jewellery making, had led to an increasingly repetitive use of forms and shapes, until they grew arbitrary and replaceable. Then, with the beginning of the new decade, it seemed that the crisis had been averted: pieces in gleaming white, airy designs set with pearls and diamonds, conquered the market of fine jewellery. The white colour was the unifying element of those jewels – in fact, „Weißjuwelen”, white jewels, has become the technical term in German-speaking countries. White diamonds and natural pearls were placed in settings of silver, later on in platinum and white gold. The designs of this time are light and playful, consisting of laurels, leaves and floral tendrils, stylised into ethereal shapes. These white jewels were the perfect way to showcase single coloured gemstones. The pendant at hand is such a piece: A large, pink spinel in a rose hue takes centre stage. The cushion cut gem is set in gold, seemingly floating in the middle of the piece, held only by delicate knife strips. The surrounding diamonds and natural pearls, however, are set in gold with an additional overlay of silver, so that no yellow tarnishes their gleaming white. We are made to think of foliate scrolls and blossoms, amidst which the central spinel blooms like a rose. It is this exact style which has become synonymous with the Belle Époque, and which so perfectly captures the essence of the time, when makers of art and jewellery grew increasingly aware of the onset of a new century and era. The pendant will be delivered with a silver chain as well as with the independent certificate of a renowned gemmological institute.

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can begin to find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within 30 days and we will refund the full purchase price.


We want you to be 100% satisfied! That’s why we examine, describe and photograph all our jewellery with the utmost care.

If for any reason you are still not satisfied, contact us and we will find a mutual solution immediately. Regardless, you can return any item within 30 days and we will refund you the full purchase price.