Unusual Pendant-Brooch with Old-Cut Diamonds, Berlin, c. 1912

Lines of Light

Unusual Pendant-Brooch with Old-Cut Diamonds, Berlin, c. 1912

€ 16,890.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

“Our childhood was weighed down by a paralyzing abundance of things, not a single one of which could make us happy…” Looking back with utter weariness, Henry van de Velde summed up his unease with the art of the late 19th century, which drew on the rich ornamentation of the past. Together with other artists of his generation, he therefore sought new forms—a simpler, more minimalist beauty drawn from lines and abstraction. This jewel could only have come into being against the backdrop of these aspirations and shows us just how radically this idea could be pursued as early as about a decade after the turn of the century: it continues to astound us to this day with its modernity. The piece of jewellery draws its vitality from the power of the line and is, in this respect, both timeless and characteristic of its time. Minimalist lines formed by individually set diamonds come together to create a design in the typical Belle Époque style, which can be worn as a brooch or a pendant. As minimalist as the design may appear, its gemstone setting is exquisite: the largest diamond weighs one carat, and all the diamonds together total 4.40 carats. They sparkle with brilliant clarity and radiate an impressive fire. The engravings on the sides of the diamond settings are also particularly beautiful. We acquired this piece of jewellery along with a contemporary invoice from a private collection in Berlin, which states that it was purchased in December 1912 by District Judge Specht of Berlin-Schlachtensee—presumably as a Christmas gift. The price of 2,300 marks was, at the time, roughly double the average annual salary or equivalent to four years’ rent for a four- to six-room apartment in a major German city. Such expenditures on jewellery were not uncommon among the wealthy upper classes, as jewellery served as a demonstration of social status at prestigious events and was considered downright necessary on certain occasions. The invoice lists 50, not 52, brilliant-cut diamonds. However, the craftsmanship and design of the piece leave no doubt that it is a German piece of jewellery from that period and of the stated value: It is therefore highly likely that the invoice pertains to this very piece of jewellery (Incidentally, we frequently encounter counting errors even on modern invoices and in modern appraisals—sparkling diamonds like these can be quite deceptive!) The piece is a rare find in every respect: even after all these years, we have yet to encounter many pieces of jewellery as radically minimalist in form as this one. It comes with the original invoice as well as an independent laboratory report.

Size & Details

Lines of Light

€ 16,890.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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