Unusual Ring with Rose Cut Diamonds on Blue Enamel, c. 1870

Bague de Firmament

Unusual Ring with Rose Cut Diamonds on Blue Enamel, c. 1870

€ 1,890.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

Like so many details in the field of historical jewellery, enamel has a very special history that is closely linked to constantly changing fashions. In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, the overwhelming majority of even the most precious pieces of jewellery were elaborately enameled. The technique was complicated and people loved intense colours, so enamel often framed and complemented the brilliance of precious gemstones. This taste initially changed with the Rococo period. Coloured stones were increasingly easy to obtain from overseas colonies and were used to shine even more seductively in the light of the candles in the salons. Enamel, on the other hand, receded into the background and was hardly used at all. It was not until 1775 that the London goldsmith Jusen again created new pieces of jewellery in enamel, now in a deep midnight blue, which he combined with diamonds in silver settings. A few commissions from the royal family, which quickly became known to the public, were enough and a new fashion was born: rings and brooches in Royal Blue Enamel were soon all the rage, even in Paris. Here they were called "bagues de firmament", or sky rings. Our ring, which we would like to present to you here, is part of this tradition. Its deep blue, slightly translucent enamel base glows mysteriously like the sky on a summer's night. Precious old rose cut diamonds are set on this gaze into infinity. In the center, an impressive large diamond rose of around half a carat is particularly fascinating. Together with its entourage of small diamond roses, it looks like a sparkling star. A simple bar of reddish gold holds the arrangement of light and night securely on the finger. The shape, workmanship and size of the piece of jewellery suggest that the ring was created in the late 19th century, around 1870 to be precise. Blue enamel was once again fashionable at the time: The star shape of the diamond settings emphasizes the cosmic look of the ring. For the history of the "bagues de firmament", see Ginny Redington Dawas/Olivia Collings: Georgian Jewelry 1714-1830, Woodbridge 2007, p. 120, and Diana Scarisbrick: Rings. Jewellery of Power, Love and Loyalty, London 2007, p. 93f.

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Rose cut diamonds, also known as "rose couronée" or "crowned roses", can already be found in pieces of jewellery from the 16th century; numerous famous diamonds such as the Orloff and the Grand Mogul are designed in this rose cut. It is characterized by the fact that the top of the diamond is faceted in a star shape and the underside is cut flat. This creates a very specific, soft shimmer that is very different from the sometimes garish brilliance of today's diamonds.

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Size & Details

Bague de Firmament

€ 1,890.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Our Promise

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within one month and we will refund the full purchase price.

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Bague de Firmament

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