Chrysoprase, Diamond and Pearl Pendant-Brooch by Court Jeweller Hugo Schaper, Berlin, c. 1905

Siren’s Treasure

Chrysoprase, Diamond and Pearl Pendant-Brooch by Court Jeweller Hugo Schaper, Berlin, c. 1905

€ 7,490.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

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Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

The childhood of the imperial and royal court goldsmith Hugo Schaper (1844-1915) was not under a good star: the son of a pastor from Alsleben (Saale) was orphaned at the age of just five after the deaths of his father and then his mother in quick succession. Nevertheless, he managed to rise to the top of artistic life in the German Empire. He settled in Berlin and was quickly able to attract many wealthy customers from the bourgeoisie and aristocracy for his exquisite goldsmith work. By 1898 at the latest, he was appointed court goldsmith to the Emperor – a position he held until his death. He maintained his workshop at Potsdamer Strasse 8, not far from Potsdamer Platz. This piece of jewellery was once offered in Schaper's shop. A yellowish drop-cut diamond is set on a large, seafoam green chrysoprase. Finely modeled, golden garlands, set with natural pearls and other diamonds, accompany the diamond drop. Another pearl is suspended at the bottom. A diamond-studded bow shimmers at the top. The design is based on the style of Louis Seize and is therefore entirely in keeping with the taste of the years shortly after 1900. At the same time, Schaper combines the design with modern techniques and materials. The chrysoprase, which, like many so-called "semi-precious stones", was first set in precious evening jewellery from the end of the 19th century, is particularly innovative. The rich diamond discoveries in South Africa shortly beforehand had made diamond jewellery virtually ubiquitous in the evening. The artistically minded elite now sought distinction through more unusual stones selected for their poetic color effects. As early as 1899, Schaper had presented "a rich piece with large chrysoprase, rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds with a very attractive colour effect" in Berlin; he was credited with a particularly "fine feeling for the combination of colours", as is also expressed here in the interplay of chrysoprase, yellow diamond and gold. The elegant piece of jewellery can not only be worn as a necklace - it also has a brooch mount on the back. The chain can be removed and the pendant loops can be folded down inconspicuously. The ability to wear a piece as a brooch and pendant was very common at the time, as precious pieces could be worn with both high-necked and low-cut dresses. The luxurious jewel has been preserved in its original, custom-made case by Schaper. As the jewel itself is not signed, like most pieces of that time, the case helps to attribute the jewel to Schaper. The quotation from [Anon.], "Berliner Brief", Deutsche Goldschmiede-Zeitung 2 (1899), pp. 120-122, here p. 120.

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Lightness and sophistication were the aesthetic ideals of the Belle Époque, the years of joie de vivre between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the First World War. Diamonds shone brightly in platinum. Gallant motifs such as laurel garlands, flowers and bows - borrowed from the cheerful neoclassicism of Marie Antoinette's time - were combined to create ever new jewelry creations. In the electric light, the aristocracy and industrialists of the evening had many opportunities to show off fine pieces of jewelry.

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Size & Details

Siren’s Treasure

€ 7,490.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

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