The Goldsmith's Art

Expressionist Ring with Rubies & Diamonds in Gold, Germany circa 1925


€ 1,980.00 *
Content 1 piece
Incl. VAT, Shipping
Expressionist Ring with Rubies & Diamonds in Gold, Germany circa 1925
Expressionist Ring with Rubies & Diamonds in Gold, Germany circa 1925
Description
This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!
In the late 1910s and 1920s, not only white sparkling diamond jewels in the representative Garland Style or in modern Art Deco, as supplied by the manufactories from Pforzheim and exported all over the world, existed in the Weimar Republic. Artist-goldsmiths also created jewels that were oriented towards Expressionism. We reproduce herewith an example from 'Die Goldschmiedekunst', published in the issue 17/1924. The designs shown there show plant forms, which are built up from geometric arcs. The shapes end in jagged points. Very similar forms can also be found in the architecture of the time, for example in the expressionist ceiling stucco of the Renaissance Theater in Berlin, which was built in 1926. The ring here is a now rare testimony to this fashion, which was much more often realized in silver than in the more costly gold. For on the one hand, the time after the First World War was financially strained - complaints about this can be found not least in publications such as 'Goldschmiedekunst' - and on the other hand, these pieces were usually not created as commissions, but on the own initiative of the goldsmith executing them. The design of the ring focuses on an oval ring face in dynamic relief. Three-dimensional highlighted curves of platinum and gold frame a diamond and a ruby. A large Verneuil synthetic ruby - a novelty at the time - is accompanied by two small untreated Burma rubies. The ring shoulders, spreading towards the center, are filled with airy elements of gold. Their shapes correspond to the designs mentioned above and allow us to date the ring to the mid-1920s. The unusual ring preserves the avant-garde spirit of those years. Not only its design, but also the hallmark proves its origin in Germany. Many designs in this formal language can be found, for example, in Christianne Weber: Schmuck der 20er und 30er Jahre in Deutschland, Stuttgart 1990.
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Never were jewellery and fine art in such close dialogue as in the early 20th century. The Art Nouveau jewels of the great artists' goldsmiths such as Lalique depicted scenes that could be seen in two-dimensional versions in the art salons at the same time. Alfons Mucha himself designed jewelry pieces, which were then realized by Georges Fouquet. Last but not least, expressionist painters such as Schmidt-Rottluff, Heckel and Kirchner also created their own jewellery.
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Size & Details
Expressionist Ring with Rubies & Diamonds in Gold, Germany circa 1925
The Goldsmith's Art
€ 1,980.00 *
Content 1 piece
Incl. VAT, Shipping
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Our Promise
Our Promise

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You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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