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Precious "Collier-de-Chien" From an Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Clip, Circa 1930 & Later

€ 26,490.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Precious "Collier-de-Chien" From an Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Clip, Circa 1930 & Later

Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

When we discovered this magnificent necklace in Switzerland, we were immediately impressed by the beautiful materials and its elegant, cool look. Ten rows of shimmering Akoya pearls hold a curved platinum ornament set all over with diamonds. In the middle of the rich diamond setting, the goldsmith has created a blossoming branch using the finest hand-cut joints. It bears three blossoms, one of diamonds, one of natural pearls and one of three untreated rubies from Burma. This precious showpiece speaks the luxurious design language of French Art Deco; Cartier, for example, has very similar bracelets that show plant shapes in a flat diamond pavé with sawn joints. The cool, elegant colour scheme of red and white tones is also typical of the years around 1930. The showpiece was actually created during this period, and as it bears French goldsmith's marks, it is also certain that it is French. The broad strands of pearls with the white gold bars and clasp were added later. In fact, the showpiece with the gemstones was probably originally a clip, the type of brooch that is so typical of Art Deco. In later decades, the clip fell out of fashion a little and so it was probably reworked into the necklace. We think that this happened in the years around 1980. In keeping with the high quality of the clip, equally high-quality materials were used for the necklace: The Akoya pearls are very uniformly round and of a beautiful, creamy white colour with a slight pink overlay. The bars and clasp are made of high-carat white gold and the clasp is also set with old diamonds dating back to the early 19th century. We have commissioned an independent expert opinion on the materials and in particular on the Burma rubies. It is enclosed with this wonderful necklace.

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One of the most beautiful and typical pieces of Art Deco jewelry is the clip. Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels produced extravagant, precious pieces, mostly set with diamonds, in Paris from the late 1920s onwards, and goldsmiths all over the world soon followed suit. The special thing about this new type of brooch was that it could no longer be worn just on the lapel, but anywhere on the dress, on the belt, on the bag and even in the hair. Often worn as a pair, but also individually, they could be used to create surprising accents that were previously impossible. At the time of their introduction, the shape of the clips was initially flat and the surfaces were richly set with diamonds. During the 1930s, increasingly voluminous, geometric shapes came into fashion. Yellow gold also replaced the previously favored white gold, in line with the general trend of Art Deco. Towards the end of the 1930s, one last innovation before the upheaval of the Great War was the redesign of the back mount. Whereas previously a single large plate with a spring mechanism had been fitted here, two interconnected pins were now used. For the history of the clip, see David Bennett/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 322-325, with numerous illustrations.

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Size & Details

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€ 26,490.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Our Promise

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within one month and we will refund the full purchase price.

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