English Elegance

Antique Stickpin with Reverse Crystal Intaglio Set in Gold, c. 1875


€ 1,290.00 *
Content 1 piece
Incl. VAT, Shipping
Antique Stickpin with Reverse Crystal Intaglio Set in Gold, c. 1875
Antique Stickpin with Reverse Crystal Intaglio Set in Gold, c. 1875
Description
This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!
We first encountered jewellery with hunting and sporting motifs on a large scale in the last third of the 19th century. This pin depicts a hunting or farm dog: presumably a Manchester terrier or German pinscher. The beautiful animal portrait is executed in an extremely elaborate, now forgotten technique known as "Essex Crystal" or "Reverse Crystal Intaglio". The motif is engraved into the back of a rock crystal and then painted from behind, giving it an almost three-dimensional appearance. The elegant, lifelike lines are typical of these objects from Great Britain. The crystal is set in an understated red gold frame. At the back, it reveals a mother-of-pearl back panel, which subtly shimmers against the background of the motif from the front view. The length of the pin and the size of the showpiece indicate that it was made around 1875; later pins were significantly smaller. A strikingly beautiful and rare piece that is ready to adorn a lapel again in excellent condition.
Learn more
The exact origins of Essex Crystal are unknown, but the first evidence of such jewelry can be found in England from the middle of the 19th century. The preferred subjects were dogs, cats, horses and hunting motifs. The craftsmanship required to achieve the lifelike realism of the illustrations was enormous. The small portrait miniatures were created using a series of techniques and steps. First, a clear rock crystal or a piece of glass is cut into a cabochon with a curved front and a flat back. The motif is then cut into the back as a negative shape or intaglio to achieve the desired three-dimensional trompe l'œil effect. The resulting image is then painstakingly painted by hand, reproducing even the smallest details with admirable fidelity to nature. Finally, the image is given a thin background, e.g. made of mother-of-pearl, and the crystal is then set into a piece of jewelry. Like so many elaborate and labor-intensive processes, the craftsmanship of Essex crystal only existed in its pure form for a few decades. At the beginning of the 20th century, cheaper versions made of pressed glass replaced the miniatures painstakingly cut and hand-painted in rock crystal. However, the merits of the original Essex Crystal remain unsurpassed to this day and are prized by collectors for their beauty. Above all, the detailed cutting and the superb, multi-colored painting characterize the best works. Often the value of an Essex Crystal can be judged not only by its naturalistic execution but also by the astonishing depth of detail revealed in the side view.
Learn more
Read more
Size & Details
Antique Stickpin with Reverse Crystal Intaglio Set in Gold, c. 1875
English Elegance
€ 1,290.00 *
Content 1 piece
Incl. VAT, Shipping
Our Promise
Our Promise
Our Promise

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trade organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

Should you for some reason not be satisfied, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can find a solution together. In any case, you can return any article within one month and we will refund the full purchase price.

Learn more