Sweepingly draped

Late Art Déco platinum brooch with brilliant-cut diamonds, ca. 1950

€ 3,290.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Late Art Déco platinum brooch with brilliant-cut diamonds, ca. 1950

Description

This description was automatically translated from German. If you have any questions about this piece of jewellery, we will be happy to help!

In the 1940s, Art Deco forms became increasingly sculptural. Suddenly, geometric abstractions were no longer allowed to unfold only in two dimensions, but shot up in height and width, wrapped around and around each other. Under these conditions, especially in the USA and France, the so-called drapery motifs were created, which were reminiscent of bows and fabric ribbons and webs - but made of precious white metals with diamonds. The drapery motifs of the 1940s, whose ribbons were usually quite wide and compact, then changed again in the period around 1950. The broad bands seem to unravel into several slender strands, which in their entirety offer an even more dynamic impression. A brooch from exactly this period is also before us here. Ribbons of precious platinum wind around each other, forming a kind of bow of elegant nonchalance, the ends of which diverge and hold an openwork element that looks like a cloth moved by the wind. The design is informal, almost casual, making the preciousness of the materials used appear even more extravagant in contrast. The surface of the platinum is set with a total of sixty brilliant-cut diamonds of fine quality, which reflect the light a hundredfold with every movement and break it up into its coloured components. A total of about 1.60 ct of diamonds of exquisite colour and good clarity were used here. Thus, the brooch picks up motifs which had already been developed in the 1940s, but whose realization in this preciousness was only made possible by the economic miracle of the post-war years. Despite the abundance and quality of the materials used here, however, the piece of jewellery draws its persuasive power above all from its moving, asymmetrical design, which knows how to transfer this richness into an informal and, precisely for this reason, elegant aesthetic. Comparable pieces from the 1950s with similarly executed knot motifs can be found, for example, in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 371, fig. 678 or p. 378, fig. 688.

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"No other green attains the splendor of the richly and nobly colored emerald. Impossible to compare a green glass with this stone, absurd to name even the sea or a colorful parrot emerald. How might the Spaniards once have felt when they received as a gift from the Indians in 1537 that stone of ambition and passionate love?" With these exuberant words, a popular non-fiction book of the first half of the 20th century describes the emerald. The green variety of beryl was coveted in ancient Egypt, and Egypt dominated the emerald trade in the Mediterranean until the fall of the Pharaonic Empire. It was not until the Spanish conquered South America in the 16th century that rich emerald deposits were discovered on the new continent, which from then on became the most sought-after gemstones of the European upper class. The emerald is one of the most valuable gemstones and has always had a very high value in many cultures, myths and royal houses. The ancient Egyptians recognized the healing powers of the emerald early on, especially its effect on the eyes. Even Pliny the Elder wrote about it: "If the eyes are weakened, they are strengthened again by looking at the emerald. The gentle green of the stone drives away dullness". Nero is also said to have worn an emerald as a monocle to strengthen his eyes, and it is even said of Cleopatra that she supported her beauty and youth by wearing emeralds. The emerald was already mentioned in the Bible and was considered in the Revelation of John as the fourth of the twelve foundation stones of the Jerusalem city wall.

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Size & Details

Sweepingly draped

€ 3,290.00 ^*

Content 1 piece

Incl. VAT, Shipping

Our Promise

We want you to be 100% satisfied! For that reason, we examine, describe and photograph all of our jewellery with the utmost care.

You can rely on our years of experience in the trade and our expertise as a professional art historians for reviews of the antique jewellery. As a member of various trader organisations and the British Society of Jewellery Historians, we remain committed to the highest possible degree of accuracy. In our descriptions, we always also indicate any signs of age and defects and never hide them in our photos – this saves you from any unpleasant surprises when your package arrives.

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Sweepingly draped

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